Hiking Iceland's Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls Trail – Six Days Through Fire and Ice

Early last year, while sitting in a café in downtown Los Altos with a fellow hiker, I mentioned that I was planning a trip to Iceland. He immediately said, "If you're going, you must hike the Laugavegur Trail." That simple suggestion planted a seed. Soon, I convinced my neighbor and hiking partner, Ramesh, to join me, and we planned a ten-day Iceland adventure. Our spouses would explore Iceland's Golden Circle and Ring Road with us before we set off on the six-day Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls trek.

Duration: 6 days

Distance: ~70 miles (113 km)

Highest Point: Fimmvörðuháls Pass (~1,000 m / 3,280 ft)

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Best Time: July–August

Highlights: Rhyolite mountains, glaciers, lava fields, volcanoes, river crossings, waterfalls

Iceland is a land shaped by two powerful forces—fire and ice. Sitting atop the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, it is one of the world's most volcanically active countries while also home to Europe's largest glacier. We were about to spend six days crossing colorful rhyolite mountains, lava fields, snowfields, glaciers, and volcanic landscapes—one of Iceland's most celebrated hiking routes. The adventure was about to begin. 

 

Day 1:  Reach Landmannalaugar and hike Bláhnjúkur Volcano (6 mi, 3 hrs)

We reached Landmannalaugar around 2:00 p.m. After settling into our mountain hut, we set off to hike Bláhnjúkur. The rhyolite mountains surrounding Landmannalaugar shimmered in shades of red, yellow, green, and black, making the landscape feel almost surreal. Steam vents and hot springs reminded us that volcanic forces are still very much alive beneath our feet. After the hike, we soaked in the natural geothermal pool for about thirty minutes. In my opinion, it was even more relaxing than the famous Blue Lagoon. Refreshed, we prepared dinner and settled in for the night.

Day 2:  Landmannalaugar -> Álftavatn (15 mi, 9 hrs)

Day 2 was an intense hike. Much of the day was spent crossing snowfields and patches of ice that lingered well into summer. Walking nearly five kilometers across snow and ice demanded constant concentration. Every step had to be deliberate, especially with my ankle still recovering from a recent sprain. Looking at glaciers draped over volcanic mountains, I couldn't help but reflect on Iceland's eternal conversation between fire and ice—forces that continue to shape the landscape even today.

 

 

We hiked beneath the Eyjafjallajökull glacier, which sits atop the volcano that famously erupted in 2010 and disrupted air travel across Europe.

Day 3: Alftavatn --> Emstrur (10 mi, 6 hrs)

Day 3 took us across lava fields, glacial rivers, and spectacular canyons. Crossing icy glacial rivers became one of the day's unforgettable experiences. The water was knee-deep, painfully cold, and up to fifty feet wide. Once committed, there was no turning back.  

This was the worst hut experience. We stayed in a 20x30' hut which had 4 rows of bunk beds for 22 people and a kitchen to cook. The little hut was buzzing with hikers cooking, drying wet clothes, and swapping stories from the trail. That night became an orchestra of snoring. Sleep, unfortunately, was optional.

Day 4: Emstrur -> Thormork Valley (10 mi, 6 hrs)

Day 4 was an easier hike - not much elevation gain and going over meadows. Icelandic weather had one more lesson for us. Rain arrived with strong winds, followed suddenly by a burst of hail. Wind-driven hail stung our faces like tiny needles.

We reached camp around 4:00 p.m., explored the surroundings, and enjoyed a well-earned evening of rest.

Day 5: Hiking to Magni and Modi Volcano, Fimmvorduhals pass (14 mi, 9 hrs)

Day 5 was the hike I had been looking forward to the most—and also the one I respected the most. It would be the longest, steepest, and most demanding day of the trek. Some steep sections were protected with chains, requiring careful footing and a firm grip. Without question, this was the highlight of the trek. Steep ascents, narrow ridges, lava fields, waterfalls, glaciers, snowfields, and finally the young volcanic craters of Magni and Móði—all in a single day. It felt like hiking through every landscape Iceland has to offer. By the time we reached the pass, every step of the climb had been worth the effort.

 

Standing on the pass, surrounded by glaciers, lava fields, waterfalls, and volcanoes, I felt as if Iceland had condensed all of its landscapes into a single unforgettable day.

Day 6: Porsmork Valley (5 mi, 3 hrs)

Final day. We took a relaxing five-mile hike up Valahnúkur Mountain, with only about 600 feet of elevation gain. After lunch, we headed back to Reykjavík.  As we descended into Þórsmörk one final time, I realized the journey had been about much more than completing seventy miles. It was about witnessing nature in one of its rawest forms, challenging myself physically, and sharing unforgettable moments with people from around the world. One of the unexpected joys of the trek was the people we met along the way: an orthopedic surgeon, a 71-year-old Cuban-Argentinian and his equally adventurous wife, their outdoor-savvy son, and two inspiring women from Australia whose enthusiasm never wavered despite missing a few hikes. These conversations became as memorable as the landscapes themselves.

Author(L) & Ramesh(R)

Iceland reminded me that adventure isn't measured by miles walked or summits reached. It is measured by the moments that leave us humbled, grateful, and forever changed. The land of fire and ice gave me memories—and friendships—that will stay with me for a lifetime.

Thanks, Ramesh, for joining the hike!

July 2026